Catch and Honour: The Foodways of Fish in Canada
Part of the series: “What We Eat on This Land: Reclaiming Canadian Food Stories”
Key Takeaways
Fish has long been a foundational food for many Indigenous Nations, central to ceremony, community, and survival.
Early settler and immigrant communities relied on fish for trade, sustenance, and identity.
Traditional fish preservation methods—smoking, drying, salting—remain vital for food culture and sustainability.
Modern fishing communities face challenges from overfishing, pollution, and climate change.
Indigenous and small-scale fisheries are working to restore local foodways through cultural leadership.
Table of Contents
Introduction: The Lifeblood of the Land and Water
Fish is not just a food source in Canada—it is integral to the cultural, spiritual, and economic identity of many communities. Indigenous Peoples across the country have relied on fish for millennia, developing complex techniques to fish, preserve, and honour the creatures of the water. From the coastlines of the Pacific to the inland lakes of the Prairies, fish has sustained communities, shaped economies, and maintained deep spiritual connections to the land.
For settlers and immigrant communities, fish became a critical food and commodity, influencing trade routes, settlement patterns, and local traditions. From Newfoundland’s cod to the salmon-rich rivers of the West Coast, fishing has been central to Canadian history and culture.
Today, however, both the ecosystems that sustain fish and the practices that preserve them are under threat from overfishing, climate change, and pollution. In this article, we explore the foodways of fish in Canada—honouring traditional knowledge, recognising modern challenges, and looking to the future of this vital food source.
Fish as First Food: Indigenous Fishing Traditions
Across Canada, fish has been recognized as a First Food—a foundational element of diets that sustains the body and spirit. Indigenous Nations have had millennia to develop intricate systems for fishing, from coastal salmon runs to inland lakes and rivers.
In the Pacific Northwest, the Haida, Tlingit, and Nuu-chah-nulth nations perfected techniques for salmon fishing, including the use of weirs, nets, and the famous cedar plank smokehouses. On the East Coast, the Mi'kmaq and Maliseet fished for gaspereau, eels, and smelt, often working with tides and seasonal patterns to ensure a sustainable harvest.
Fishing was not simply an economic activity—it was embedded in ceremonies and spiritual practices. The Salmon Ceremony of the Nuu-chah-nulth and the First Fish Ceremony of the Syilx (south of the current border) are examples of how fishing practices and spiritual beliefs were inseparable.
These foodways are about more than just survival. They are about respect, gratitude, and the relationship between people and the land, including the waters that nourish us.
Preservation and Ceremony: Smokehouses, Drying Racks, and Fish Feasts
The abundance of fish did not go to waste. Indigenous communities developed various preservation methods, ensuring fish could last through harsh winters. On the Pacific Coast, smokehouses were essential in preserving salmon and other fish, allowing these communities to store food for the colder months. Similarly, drying racks were set up along rivers and lakes, where fish were hung to dry in the sun or by fire, turning them into salted or dried fish for later use.
For many communities, the act of preserving fish was as important as catching it. These methods required careful monitoring of the environment and deep knowledge of seasonal cycles. Dried fish were shared among the community, and the food itself became a means of honoring the catch—transforming fish from a source of sustenance to a ceremonial food.
Communities also gathered for fish feasts, during which fish was celebrated as a gift of the waters. For example, the Nisga'a Nation in British Columbia still holds Salmon Festivals, where the community comes together to honor the salmon and their role in sustaining the community.
In recent years, these feasts and ceremonies have been revitalized by younger generations, strengthening the relationship with fish and water while passing along ancient knowledge to a new generation. As these celebrations continue, they reinforce a sense of cultural pride and community connection to the land.
Settler and Immigrant Fishing Cultures
When settlers arrived, they quickly adapted Indigenous fishing techniques, adding their own traditions and tools. European settlers brought salting, pickling, and smoking methods, helping to develop a cod fishing industry in Newfoundland. The Mi'kmaq shared their fishing techniques with French settlers, leading to the establishment of a major cod fishery in the 17th century.
As new waves of immigration arrived, diverse fishing cultures became part of the Canadian food story. Ukrainians in Manitoba and Saskatchewan adapted pickling techniques for fish, while Portuguese immigrants brought their traditional sardine grilling and salted cod methods to the Maritimes. Chinese Canadians were involved in the fishing industry along the West Coast, and Italian Canadians brought new approaches to fresh fish markets and drying fish.
These practices not only fed growing populations but also connected immigrants to their heritage, allowing them to preserve their food traditions even in a new land.
Today, many of these immigrant fishing cultures live on in ethnic markets, community festivals, and family recipes—a testament to the adaptability of food in the face of cultural exchange.
From Stewardship to Struggle: Modern Challenges
The 20th century saw a shift from sustainable, community-driven fishing practices to a more industrialized approach. Overfishing, pollution, and habitat destruction have severely impacted fish populations across the country, particularly the Atlantic cod, which was once one of the world’s most abundant fisheries.
The commercial fishing industry’s growth in the mid-1900s often neglected the ecological balance that Indigenous communities had always maintained. With aquaculture, global markets, and large-scale industrial fishing, fish stocks began to decline at alarming rates.
The collapse of the cod fishery in 1992 is a key example of how industrial fishing can deplete an ecosystem. At its peak, Newfoundland’s cod fishery employed tens of thousands of people. Today, the waters off Newfoundland and Labrador are still recovering from the overfishing that led to the moratorium on cod fishing, which continues to affect communities that relied on it for generations.
Today, Indigenous fisheries and small-scale, sustainable operations are struggling against government policies and market forces that prioritize profits over ecological health. Despite efforts to restore fish populations, the damage done by decades of mismanagement has left many fisheries vulnerable to collapse.
Reviving the Waterways: Indigenous and Local Leadership
Despite these challenges, Indigenous communities are reclaiming their rights and knowledge to restore fish populations and rebuild ecological balance.
In the Okanagan Valley, the Syilx Okanagan Nation works to bring back sockeye salmon, which have been nearly wiped out in the region. The Nisga'a Nation operates its own fisheries management system to protect the fish population while continuing traditional practices.
Several grassroots initiatives are also helping small-scale, local fishers who use traditional methods to maintain sustainable harvesting. These efforts are community-led and often involve a combination of scientific data and traditional knowledge to ensure a balance between ecological health and food sovereignty.
In the St. Lawrence River region, the Mohawk people are taking leadership roles in the restoration of Atlantic salmon populations. They are using traditional monitoring techniques alongside modern science to support healthy fish runs and safeguard this iconic species.
These efforts show that the future of Canadian fishways lies in a return to traditional ecological knowledge, where communities, not corporations, control the waters and their resources.
Conclusion: Fish as Food, Future, and Responsibility
In the story of Canadian food, fish is not a footnote—it is a foundation. It has fed Nations for millennia, shaped economies, and taught us about reciprocity, respect, and resilience.
Today, to catch and honour fish means more than casting a line. It means listening to the water, supporting sustainable harvesters, protecting ecosystems, and honouring the communities who have kept these traditions alive through colonialism, climate, and change.
As we look to the future, these foodways offer more than nourishment—they offer a model of how to live well on this land.
Read More from the Series:
Beyond the Barbecue: The Real Roots of Canadian Summer Foods
Grains Across Borders: How Bread and Dumplings Built Communities
Summer Tables, Shared Plates: Food Traditions from Canada’s Immigrant Festivals
